Saturday, August 15, 2009
An Amazing Semester
Enjoy! What an amazing semester.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
This might possibly be the last post I make here...
My head is spinning from the turmoil of the last few days, and just in case you don’t know, here’s the recap: watched Club Athletic’s expected loss to Barcelona instead of studying for exams, took exams while wishing I had studied for exams, celebrated and mourned our return to the states with our Erasmus friends, realized I really do love Bilbao and País Vasco, checked in for our EasyJet plane to London, realized our luggage was 10 kilos over and had to throw away the extras, visited London and relished in speaking English, flew to Dublin via RyanAir, decided to forever boycott RyanAir, got lost in Dublin without a map, explored the Storehouse and drank this black coffee they call Guiness, would have relished the English if we could have understood it, flew back to the states, ate Mexican food, graduated two days later, move into my apartment TODAY.
The chaos of the past few days didn’t leave much room for blogging, but now – sitting in this Austin La Quinta after graduation – it’s time to wrap it all up.
But whether or not that all fits in my future – I have no idea. The speaker at my graduation - an eccentric but fun Pulitzer Prize winner whose quirky insight had the whole auditorium laughing – said something I’m going to try to keep at heart. He said think in the present, live in the present, write in the present. That’s what I want to do, so we’ll see how it goes.
It’d be easy for me to get caught up in a sentimental rant and take a tangent away from what I originally wanted to write about, so...here’s the extended recap of what Cabana have been up to in the last weeks of our life in Spain.
After Athletic’s eventual loss to Barça, and after our tests that gave a whole new meaning to the final in final exams, Cade and I began the sad process of packing up our little dorm room and squeezing it all into our two bags. Not all of it fit – especially the 19 wine bottles we’d saved from some weekends we can’t even remember and other memorabilia that we sadly couldn’t take – but we packed what we could and threw away what we couldn’t. The night before we flew up to London, we had a big farewell dinner with all of our friends – the so-deemed Erasmus kids. For photos of the most good looking kids in Europe, click here. We ate, drank and talked all night long, exchanged presents and had so much fun that it made me realize they’re the part of Bilbao I’ll miss the most. Cade and I made everyone an enlarged photo of our group together, and they surprised us with the sweetest video, and I think the only video, we’ve ever had made for us. Any attempt to describe it would be an injustice, so please take the time to watch it here. http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/video/video.php?v=1146645180310&ref=mf
We ended the night like old times – bar hopping, stealing wine glasses and making a ruckus in the streets. If y’all are reading, I hope you know I’ll never forget y’all and if you don’t keep up with me on Facebook I’m coming over to Sweden/Boston/Brasil/Belgium/France/Italy/Norway and I’ll find you!
London, by all means, was quite lovely once we actually got there. But the whole thing beforehand with the airline just sucked. Now, London and Dublin were our last stops before going home, so obviously we had everything with us – the last six months of our lives all scrunched into two bags each. So, once we set down our baggage at the EasyJet check-in counter at the Bilbao airport, we’re told that our bags are 12 kilos over. Okay, cool. Not a problem. I’ll just pay the extra weight. No, she says. Extra weight is “carísimo” – they charge 12€ per kilo. So, it was either pay 120€ on the spot or throw away our luggage. Had we been anything but poor college kids, I might still have my favorite pair of pajama pants, all four books of the Twilight series, my black boots and a dozen other things that define the stereotype of girls packing too much. Being young, energetic and wrinkle-less has its own price to pay, and thus a quarter of our clothes are probably now sitting in the bottom of a city dumpster in Bilbao. It would have been nice to at least be able to donate them to some sort of a shelter, which is why I propose this to any airline officials reading (because of course there are airline officials reading this blog) – put in donation boxes at the airports for poor college students who can’t afford to pay the excess baggage fees. That way, at least it won’t feel like such a waste throwing our stuff away and maybe we could help a few people along the way who don’t have it that great. Just a thought.
Despite all that, London was a welcome relief. Together with Dublin, I think the two cities were the most similar to our own culture in terms of food, music and everything els
Ireland and the Irish remind me of Texas and Texans. Who needs clubs when you have Temple Bar? We knew this going in though. We asked our Irish friend Hughie, who goes to school in Dublin, what we should do during our stay there. Obviously, go to a pub, he says. What do we do after that? Go to another pub! You see why they remind me of Texas?
Getting to Dublin, like getting to London, was a little troublesome, though. But I guess it’s only fitting that we leave a part of ourselves in as many places as possible – namely the bottom of the city dumpsters in those places.
We paid 5 pounds for our flight to London to Dublin via RyanAir. I know; freaking cheap and it would have stayed that way if we didn’t have all our bags with us. Like EasyJet, RyanAir has freakishly low baggage weight allowances, except they’re not as generous as EasyJet. 15 kilos per person. No, forget the fact that I paid for two extra bags. Apparently you don’t get more weight when you buy more bags. So, we’re roughly 10 kilos over, and excess weight is not 12 but 15 pounds per kilo this time. That’s 150 pounds, probably $300 the way the exchange rate is right now, that we didn’t have. Needless to say, I didn’t come back to the United States with much of anything. A few clothes and one pair of shoes. Cade sacrificed his cowboy boots and almost cried, which almost made me cry. So, word of caution: RyanAir is great if you’re just taking a weekend trip, but if you’re checking bags – don’t waste your time, and you won’t waste your clothes.
But once we got past that, and the cranky airport to city bus driver who dropped us off in the middle of Dublin with no map and no information on where the hell we were, Dublin rocked. After our semester of traveling and studying had come to an end, we thought what better way to finish it off than with a pint of the black stuff? Much like London, we tried to cram a week’s worth of sightseeing into one and a half day, and even though we probably missed some things, what we did see was the best. Check the pictures out here. Besides, we have our whole lives to go back and catch up on what we didn’t this time around.
The next day we flew into Chicago, then Dallas before FINALLY heading to Houston. A few days before we left and while on the plane, I wrote a little list of things I’ll miss and things I missed in Texas that only seem appropriate to add now:
What I’ll miss in País Vasco, Bilbao and Spain
2. Basque people, who are closed down at first – almost impenetrable – but so very helpful. They’re stylish, with their dark clothes and mink coats in 80 degree weather. I think I ultimately realized that they’re as proud of the Basque Country as Texans are of the Lone Star State.
3. The beautiful warm days, which seem like a gift after five months of nonstop rain. It’s kind of like Bilbao’s way of saying goodbye. I’m sitting on a bench now across from Deusto and it’s so incredibly warm. I can’t remember being able to soak up the sun like this since the sultry August days in Texas. It really makes you appreciate the sunshine so much more.
5. Being able to walk everywhere from home – from the supermarket, to school, to the post office. The feeling that I’m totally independent of my car, even when traveling. We traveled all over Europe without a car and stayed on budget. Public transportation here is amazing.
6. Being a stone’s throw away from pretty much every other European country. Taking a weekend trip to Paris, like we did in February, is laughable in the states.
7. Tortilla de patata. Natillas. Menú del día. Wine. 8. Bars. Discotecas, Kalimotxo.
9. All the friends I’ve made here, who made this experience better than I ever thought it would be. Lina, with her knack at getting everyone together and her complete acceptance of the fact that she was always the “Swedish girl” in my blog and the only non-American in most of our weekend trips. Dane, with his unmatched enthusiasm and expertise in self-timing photos. François, who puts Hugh Heffner to shame. Stephanie, who’s adorable in her own way with her curiosity about everything. Leticia and Luana, who put up with me asking them to repeat everything again when I say “más dispacio, por favor”. Ben, whose English accent makes my day, everyday. And all the others from all parts of the world who each helped me learn a little about their culture and who all gave me ample practice of my Spanish.
What I missed from Texas
Yes, this semester has truly been an amazing, unforgettable and all-around enlightening experience, but Texas calls me too, daily, especially in these last few days. What I’ll miss from Spain is compensated by what I’ve missed from home.
1. My family. My friends. Being able to see and talk to them without going through e-mail or messing with Skype on a bad connection.
2. Washer and dryer on demand. Not having to take clothes all balled up in a blanket, only to go down and see all three washers taken. Going back to a country where the people use dryers and not have to hang up wet clothes all over the place to dry.
3. Normal food. No Bacalao. TexMex. Mac and cheese. Syrup. Oh syrup. Biscuits and gravy. Lunch meat that’s not 4€ for four slices. Lean beef. Refrigerated milk (although I’ve gotten used to it). The list goes on and on.
4. Dishwasher. Bathtub. Living space more than 1 room for two people.
5. Sun.
6. Heat.
7. Shorts.
8. Being able to read a menu, order and know exactly what’s going to show up on my plate.
9. Disciplined kids.
10. Wearing flip flops without everyone looking at you like you’re crazy.
11. An oven, not just a stovetop.
But by the way, if there are any travel blog/magazine/newspaper/publication editors out there, hire me!
As for all the other readers (may just be one reader at this point), thank you so much for tagging along throughout this blog. It means a lot that you care about us and what we were up to in Spain. If I had my way, I’d do nothing but write about this stuff for the rest of my life. Turns out I don’t really have that option right now, but it may be there later.
Alright, we’re ready to take on the world. Global financial crisis and print media meltdown, bring it.
-Bana
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Aupa Athletic, and...oh yeah. I'm done!
This morning, at 10:58am, I bubbled in my last answer of the last test of my last semester of the last year of my undergraduate studies. By all means, I'm officially done - not just with Deusto and not just with Spain. I'm done with school....for now.
The creeping fact that I'm still what most would consider "unemployed" isn't ruining this for me...yet. I'm done with exams, I'm done with school and I get Mexican food next week for the first time in five months. Nothing, not even joblessness or the fact that NOBODY seems to be hiring, can spoil that. I've got way too much to relish at the moment and there's still so much going on around here that I don't want to stress about it until the plane touches ground in Houston. Better yet, until after I savor every crumb of that Mexican food.
For one - Aupa Athletic!
Even though I had two back-to-back exams this morning, there are some things you just can't miss. For the first time in I'm not sure how long, the Athletic Club Bilbao (Bilbao's soccer team and the pride of País Vasco) played in THE Copa del Rey (a Super Bowl of sorts for Spanish soccer). The game was in Valencia, but gigantic screens were splattered about the city for those who stayed in Bilbao. Two of which were in Casco Viejo, where most all of us met to watch the game last night at 10pm.
Keeping in mind that I've been in the Longhorn Band for four years, including but not limited to 4 Red River Rivalries, 1 National Championship, 4 victorious bowl games and I don't know how many ESPN Game Days, I still don't think I've ever seen so many people crowded into such a small area with such team spirit. I loved it. It really and honestly reminded me of home, where if you're not screaming your throat raw after Shipley just ran in for the TD, you're not a true fan. If you're not out of your seat when the defense stops the third down conversion, you're not really in the game. THAT'S what I love and THAT'S what I saw last night with the Club Athletic fans. They had their jerseys, their faces painted, their beer, their kalimotxos, their cigarettes, their marijuana, their bufandas, their flags and their banners. They flipped off the screens when the refs made a bad call and screamed Spanish obscenities when it didn't go their way. Just to be in the middle of all that, to be crushed in the middle of this entangled mob of fiery fans, brought me back to mosh pits and high school. It was awesome.
We brought our wine, beer and good spirits and passed the night with our big group of friends in front of the two big pantallas, or screens. I probably should have studied just a little bit more, but meh - soccer pretty much defines Spanish culture so that's just something you can't miss. We had the face paint, wore our red and white and cheered with the crowd, but in the end Barcelona kicked some serious ass and rose up above Bilbao 4-1. But even though they lost, that's an experience I wouldn't miss for anything.
*I forgot to bring my camera, but Lina took some great pictures and I will try to edit this post with them as soon as I can steal them from her on Facebook.
Cade's probably about to finish his last exam as I'm writing this and as for the rest of this week, we have so much to do! Enjoy liberation today, final farewell dinner with all our friends tomorrow, pack and leave on Saturday, London on Saturday and Sunday, Dublin on Monday and Tuesday, Houston on Wednesday (this is where the Mexican food comes in) and Austin on Thursday for graduation.
Hook 'em Class of 2009!
-Bana
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Nothing shows the real País Vasco like its little fishing towns: Bakio, Mundaka and Bermeo
But the rest, you seriously have to see for yourself. Once away from industrial Bilbao and the tourists' haven San Sebastián, you can really get a good gauge on what País Vasco is, and why the people who stay here love it so much.
We started the trip early Friday afternoon, when we took the bus from Bilbao to what we thought was Bermeo. Turns out it didn't, because the highway apparently had been closed down for some while, leaving the route we had planned on taking closed. But that only heightened the adventure, as we ended up in Bakio, a quaint little pueblo right on the coast.
After spending a few hours eating our picnic lunch, taking some great pictures and climbing the monstrous rocks on the sandy beach, we left for Mundaka, another small pueblo famous for its surfing and all-around awesomeness.
Once we checked into our hotel, we went out to explore what Mundaka has to offer: beach, beach and more beach. But, unlike Barcelona, Málaga or even San Sebastián where the beaches verge on mediocre, taking in the Mundaka beach landscape can take a full day. And even better, we were the only tourists.
After we tore ourselves from this unforgettable scenery and night began to fall, we of course checked out the Mundaka nightlife, which is limited to say the least. In Bilbao, you won't go too far looking for a good pintxo bar at midnight. In Mundaka, we roamed the little streets for quite a while until we finally found a little smoky bar, where we spent the rest of the night with good music, good friends and good drinks.
The next morning we couldn't wait for more beach time. We checked out of the hotel, left our bags in the baggage room, and headed off for some more sun at what had already become my favorite beach in Spain. (Yes, seriously. Better than San Sebastián and Málaga. Better than them all...) Please though, look at the pictures. If you find a better beach in Spain with all the elements that make a beach a perfect beach, let me know. :)
I'm so glad that penny landed heads. Bermeo was almost as pretty as Mundaka, but still beautiful in its own unique Basque way. But, after seeing a pirate ship, staring in awe as the waves pounded against yet another beautiful cliffside beach and taking way too many pictures, we left the tranquil and serene scenery for the hustle and bustle of Bilbao.
And so ends another weekend journey. The more I see all of what País Vasco has to offer outside of Bilbao - most especially its amazing countryside - the more I just love being here. Only two weeks left, though. Even though I love it here, I think I'm ready to go back home. I miss family, friends, food and English. :)
Para todos mis amigos y mi familia en los estados, nos vemos en dos semanas. Para mis amigos aquí, nunca voy a olvidaros. For all my friends and family back in the states, I'll see you in two weeks. For everyone here in Bilbao, I'll never forget y'all. :)
Sinceramente,
Bana
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Barcelona and Dad's Trip to Spain
A few quick words about overnight buses for those of you considering them:
1. The tickets for overnight buses cost the same as ones during the day, but the advantage comes from not having to pay for a night of hostel.
2. Bus seats are never comfortable enough to sleep well in unless you bring a pillow.
3. It is possible to sleep on the bus, but they stop every few hours, according to Spanish law.
4. Every time they stop they make an announcement and turn on all of the lights.
5. Despite all of this, it is possible to rest while on the bus. Just be prepared. Bring something to cover your eyes and a pillow (and pray that the guy or girl behind you doesn't snore).
6. The big thing to realize is that you will probably be tired the entire next day after the ride. How tired depends on your preparation. Hostels cost money, but walking around half asleep can cost you more in the long run.
All of that being said, we met Dad at the airport train station and basically went straight to sightseeing. About an hour into walking around, we realized that Barcelona is absolutely massive on a European scale.
We started on La Rambla, which is Barcelona's huge pedestrian street what leads directly from the Plaza Cataluña to the Port. From there, we went to the huge statue of Christopher Columbus "pointing toward the horizon in search of the New World" overlooking the Port. Strolling along the harbor, we cut back up into the Gothic Quarter and Dad got to see his first Spanish cathedral. From there we headed to the Plaza Cataluña and took a video panoramic from inside of the huge circular Plaza, complete with pigeons and plenty of young Spanish children running around playing with them.
About this time, we realized that there was no way that we could walk around and see everything we wanted to see, so we hopped onto a touristic bus from Plaza Cataluña to check out the sights. And sights there were.
The bus ran two lines, the East Route and the West Route. We started on the East Route.
The first place we stopped gave us the best view over Barcelona that we found. From the Mirador (viewpoint) your could see almost all of Barcelona stretching between the mountains and the sea. Honestly, it was one of the most breathtaking views I've seen in Europe. I'll post a picture of that scene as soon as I can get one from Dad (our camera was dead on the first day), but here's the link to everything else that we took.
Continuing on the bus tour, we rode past the 1992 Olympic Stadium, the Museu Nacional de Arte Cataluña, the Plaza de España, Avenida Diagonal, and finished back at Plaza Cataluña. At all of these places, you can get off, take pictures, tour the site, etc., but we decided to stay on since we hadn't had much sleep the night before. Dad had been on a plane for 15 hours and we were on a bus for 7 hours. We all were tired. We just didn't know how tired...
We got back to the hostel around 4PM, checked in and went to sleep...for a nap...or so we thought... We finally got up and out of bed the next morning around 7AM after having slept for 15 hours each. Needless to say, we all felt very refreshed.
And later that night we ate at the Hard Rock cafe in Barcelona, where we were fortunate enough to get a Maragrita and a real american hamburger!
Barcelona was an absoultely amazing city except for all of the Catalan everywhere instead of spanish. The entire city was redone to host the 1992 Olympics, so everything along the port and the "touristy" areas are cleaned daily and in really good condition. Dad was saying that he couldn't get over how beautiful the city was despite what he originally thought was going to be an old and trashy place. Even as much as Bana and I enjoy the small places, Barcelona is definitely a must see while you're in Spain. Just be prepared to walk or pay the metro if you don't want to take the tour bus.
Anyway, on Tuesday morning after spending Sunday and Monday in Barcelona, Dad went with us back to Bilbao. Here he basically relaxed around for the rest of the week while Bana and I were in class. In quite a contrast to Barcelona, life in Bilbao takes on a much slower pace of life, and enjoying Bilbao is about enjoying relaxing around in the different sites around the city. We took him to the Funicular to get the panaorama of Bilbao. We ate pintxos (tapas) in several bars at night. We took him to an Erasmus Party, and of course to the Guggenheim Museum.
Overall, I think he enjoyed the trip, and of course it was good to see him after being away so long. Just like when Bana's parents came up in March, I didn't want to see him go back to the States. But, we've only got two short weeks left here in Bilbao then it's on to London, Dublin, and back home to Texas.
Until then,
Cade
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Rivalry in Rome
To any and all of our readers whose loyalties lie in College Station, and to those readers whose loyalties rightfully lie in Austin, this one’s for you. And for those whose loyalties lie in Norman, what are you thinking? (Just kidding...) Seriously, everything I’m about to say is all for fun – I’m not sure I can even talk smack when I’m thousands of miles away.
So, as we left the Colosseum, our heads still reeling from the grandeur of this ancient 2000-year-old amphitheater, we see graffiti of the most vulgar type – Aggie Graffiti. I even had to do a double-take to make sure, but sure enough, among all the “Jessica wuz here”s and the “B luvs C"s, was this unmistakable Texas A&M University insignia.
Okay, this gets better.
So, once we left the Colosseum , we toured Vatican City, where of all things was a message from God. An angel, perched up on a corner of Saint Peter’s Basilica, is CLEARLY giving the hook ‘em sign. I promise you, this is an original photo that I took myself and is completely unaltered except for the circle and text. If that’s not a clear message from the heavens, I don’t know what is.
Cade found the perfect quote to complement. Recognize it anyone? Hint: "The Last Corps Trip", by P.H. DuVal Jr. '51
St. Peter wiped his eyes
And said, "It's not so hard to see
They're meant for Paradise."
Aggies have to deface an ancient treasure to get their message across. UT’s got the official Vatican Stamp of Approval. You can’t ask for more than that. :)
Peace,
-Bana
When in Rome, do what the Romans do. Eat gelato.
The Colosseum
I remember reading somewhere once that entry into the Colosseum itself isn't allowed but that's apparently a huge mistake. We walked right up to the ticket sales, paid our 12€ each, and actually got prime access to the ancient relic. We're too poor for the audio guides, but once inside, it seemed it spoke its own history. Though the floor has since eroded away and most of the structures are wearing and tearing, it's easy to visualize the gladiators walking out onto the stage, fighting to the death. It was truly an intense experience. So rich in overwhelming history. We were absolutely blown away. Though they won't actually let you on the ground floor, the balconies are mostly all accessible. I really hate the cliché tourist hot spots, but this is one that was absolutely worthwhile - worth the flight to Rome, worth the two nights in the Roman hostel rooms with the two guys who snore way too loud, worth the 12€ ticket, and worth the hour it took to wait in line. Seeing history for ourselves was worth every penny.
Mmmm. Gelato. Real gelato. Because you can't go to Italy and not try its addicting ice cream, we had our share the second day there, when the weather was hot and sunny - prime climate to dig in gelato. After finishing our picnic lunches (grilled cheese and fries, cooked at the hostel the night before), we took our sacred gelatos and enjoyed them at the park, taking in the beautiful Roman weather, the Roman ruins surrounding us, and the Roman hobos.
The Food
When my parents visited us from the states and we all went to Pisa, we tried our very first authentic Italian food. Since then, Italian food has been our favorite in Europe. Rome is no different. We ate at this charming pizzaria our first day in Rome, and suffice it to say, Spanish food can't hold a candle to the bounty in Italy. Mmmm.
The Roman Ruins
Much like the Colosseum, the Roman Ruins were awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping and downright incredible. And, like the Colosseum, their history spoke for themselves. If we would have had the time, I would have spent hours perusing the ancient ruins, but our vacation was limited and we could only take a quick glance-over, snap a few photos and go. In all this, it still amazes me that when the Roman Empire had reached its peak, our own country (which, in a trio with China and Japan now headlines the global economy), was absolutely nothing.
The Vatican
We really only saw Saint Peter's Basilica, but that church alone put all the Spanish cathedrals to shame. Every inch of the church is covered with some intricate thing, whether it's alabaster figures protruding from the walls, ornate marble columns or solid gold trim. The density of the church, with all the decorations, just make other cathedrals seem so barren and empty. The entrance was free - nice for your average broke college kid - but we waited in line for well over an hour to get inside. We also went underground, where the papal tombs are, including the last pope. Seeing the Vatican guards in their interesting costumes was well worth it. Google it, and you'll see what I mean.
The Other Cool Stuff
The city itself is littered with blatant Roman architecture. You could be blindfolded and dropped from the sky and within a minute's time, you'd be able to tell you're not only in Italy, but in Rome. Various fountains (Trevi Fountain being a perfect example) are scattered through the city and all reflect the Roman mythological gods and goddesses.
Pictures
I've got lots of them (and I do mean lots of them) here. My parents gave me an amazing camera for Christmas before we left, and as cool as it is taking pictures everywhere we go, it means I've got about 2000 pictures to sort through, print out, and organize into a photo album once we get back. Whew! But, on a side note, I'm having so much fun taking pictures across the world that I may just drop everything and become a travel photographer. Better yet, a travel photojournalist! Thoughts? :)
All in all, Rome has something for the history buffs and gelato lovers alike. If you're both, like me, it's beyond amazing. And tasty.
Ciao, mi amigos.
-Bana
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Madrid
1. We visited Museo de Prado, which is pretty much THE art museum in Madrid. Saw some cool art, most notably the eerie works of Goya during his "Black Paintings" (Google Saturn Devouring Child; it's great). But, most of it was religious art, which doesn't really pique my interest the way modern art does.
2. Thus, I enjoyed Centro de Reino Sofia much better. Paired with Prado, it's pretty much one of the two best art museums in Madrid. Picasso and Dalí mostly headed up the huge modernist colection, and since we were able to see Picasso's "Guernica", it was well worth the money.
3. We toured the Royal Palace, "Palacio Real", which - suffice it to say - was lavish. So many tapistries, golden clocks, velvet-draped walls, original works of art(including a few original Stradivarious violins).
4. Took a stroll through Parque de Buen Retiro, one of the largest in Europe, and I believe, the world.
5. Our hostel truly rocks, but we´re in a room with all guys. Great.
That's pretty much it, and we're flying out to Rome tomorrow morning. We'll write more soon, but pictures might have to wait.
¡Hasta luego!
-Bana
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Sevilla
As you can see from our pictures, the architecture of the city was absolutely amazing. Of special note, and when talking about architecture, the Catedral in Sevilla is possibly one the most amazing feats of construction I’ve seen, considering the time period in which it was completed. As a little history, the Catedral began as a mosque during the Muslim occupation of Spain between 800-1200 A.D. For you conspiracy lovers out there, it is said to be built on one of the “most powerful sources of ancient magic.” However, given that it fell to the Christians in the 1200s (a short 50 years after it was built), I think it’s fairly obvious that this is only a myth. The Christians, as they did with almost every other Muslim building that they conquered, sought to redesign the mosque to suit the needs of a Christian congregation. Yet, before they could start the work, it seems that God intervened for them and parts of the Mosque were destroyed in an earthquake. When the decision was made to rebuild it as a cathedral, an anonymous monk was reputedly quoted saying, “Let us build a church so magnificent that our children will think us lunatics.” To say that they succeeded is an understatement.
The Catedral is the largest gothic cathedral in the world and has been almost completely converted from the original mosque. The only original part of the mosque is La Giralda, which is a massive tower whose domed roof collapsed during the earthquake and now exists as the belfry for the Catedral. The complex architecture that makes up the rest of the building is breathtaking, and you can actually see the different parts of the Catedral that have collapsed over time and been lavishly reconstructed. Also of note, inside the Catedral, we visted the Tomb of Cristobal Colón, a man you all probably know of as Christopher Columbus (in the pictures, the one with the four men carrying the casket).
But, although the Catedral is a masterpiece, directly across the street stands the Alcázar (originally from the Arabic word al-casr meaning the castle).
The Alcázar was the home to both the Muslim and Christian kings, and as such, is the textbook example of the infusion of Muslim and Christian culture. The building consists of two main parts: Palacio Mudéjar and Palacio Gótico. Palacio Mudéjar on the outside consists only of smooth brick walls, typical Arabic arches, and the occasional vaulted dome roof, but the inside is littered with grandiose tile work and elaborate arches. Again, however, after the Christian reconquest, they tailored the Palacio Mudéjar for a more Christian feel, so you’ll see a lot of shields over the archways and typical Christian engravings on the ceilings. In fact, that is why it’s called the Palacio Mudéjar, with mudéjar signifying the union of Christian and Muslim architecture (sorry for all the history, but I love this stuff…should have been an archeologist, haha just kidding).For a good look, there’s almost 30 pictures of the inside of this building.
The Palacio Gótico is constructed like the Catedral using giant stone blocks and forming exact geometrical shapes, a stark contrast to the smooth flow of the Mudéjar arches and domes. Inside are various tapestries depicting various scenes from the Bible, but the most intriguing one, we found, was a map created in the 13th century of Spain and the northern part of Africa. What we found interesting was that Africa was on the top part of the map and Spain on the bottom, the exact opposite of a modern map. We realized shortly afterward that in the 13th century, all of the maps were drawn from the perspective as if you were leaving Europe, the only known part of the world except for Asia.
Still here? Good! Because I’ve saved the best two things we did for last. The defining characteristics of Muslim castles and buildings are not only the staggering domes and arches, but the massive gardens of all types of flora and fauna (literary terms for plants and animals). We spent a solid hour and a half just wandering through the massive gardens of the Alcázar taking in the citrus blossoms of the orange trees and the fresh smells of spring awakening from the “long nap.” The sheer size and magnificence of the Alcázar gardens was worth the entire trip to Sevilla. You’ll just have to lose yourself in the pictures that we took, because I don’t want to cheapen the experience with my writing skills.
Now, I would be lying if I you told that all of this before hand was the best part of the trip for us. Given that we have a passion for the small things in life, not only the big tourist destinations, I can easily say that, for me, the best part of the trip was renting the two-seater bicycle and riding through the Parque de Maria Luisa. Even though it was only a ½ hour ride, it was a memory that I will never forget for the rest of my life, and I doubt that Bana will ever forget it either. The sheer tranquility of the park and the childhood memories of riding through the neighborhood on a bicycle came back and combined for an experience that was truly unforgettable.
Bueno, eso es Sevilla, una mezcla de las influencias musulmanas con las de los cristianos y con la edad moderna. Se puede perder todo el día por caminar a través de las calles magnificas o mirar las distintas arquitecturas de los edificios de tipo mudéjar. O, también, se pierde en los jardines del Alcázar o el parque de Maria Luisa. Lo que está claro es que Sevilla es una ciudad bellísima con experiencias inolvidables de tipo grande o pequeño y en cualquier situación que se encuentre.
Monday, March 30, 2009
Málaga
We wrapped up March with a tour of Málaga and Sevilla, both in the Andalucia province - which Lonely Planet fittingly calls "Classic Spain". It is though, really.
And while I'm on topic, sidenote: Lonely Planet Spain has been our consistent amigo throughout this journey (apart from the Castillo Butrón incident), and I'd highly recommend it, or any other country's version of it, for long-term trips. It tells us the worthwhile places to check out, the over-the-top places to skip, the best hostels, restaurants and bars, and has color pictures. It's the best. Seriously.
So, Málaga. Málaga. Málaga. Málaga.
The biggest city along southern Spain's ever-so-famous Costa del Sol, Málaga actually had quite more to offer than sandy beaches and sunny skies. Though admittedly, those were a plus. But what struck us the most were the older English crowd, who outnumbered the young ones by almost double. In truth, it kind of reminded me of Florida - seemed like some kind of retirement spot for the deep-pocketed folks in England. It was also tourist central, which is always kind of perturbing when you're trying to learn Spanish. Everyone in stores tried to speak to us only English (apparently we'll never conceive the fact that we're American), so after a while we just looked like we didn't understand and spoke only in Spanish. I know they're being polite (or wanting to sell their stuff, but either way...) it's so frustrating when people speak to us in English. "Hablo español. Por favor, ¡me hable en español! ¡no quiero que me hable en inglés!" Cade might pass as someone from Norway, but that doesn't quite work for me. We're still working out the kinks in our new fake nationality. We'll come up with something soon enough.
It had a big cathedral, (and the Spanish cathedrals are always fun to admire with their hodgepodge of architectural styles) which we enjoyed from outside without paying the entrance fee, but the Alcazaba was the most fun we had in Málaga (and it's not even on the beach!). But to understand why, I need to explain Spanish history a little.
Not to bombard you with the history, but because it's interesting to me (and to show that I'm actually paying attention in my Spanish cutlure class) the Romans obviously won the Spanish peninsula first, which was then followed by an Arab occupation, and then the Roman conquest, part two. A geographical tug-of-war, if you will. There's over a thousand years of Spanish history in one sentence. That's efficiency at its best.
But, while Spain was under Arab occupation (mostly in the South of Spain), the Muslims constructed massive castles and mosques, designed differently than any architectural style the Romans had ever created. Most of the structures were destroyed after the Roman reconquest, but a few remain, mostly in Spain's south - which, more than any other Spanish province - most reflects the Arabic presence. Málaga´s Alcazaba (Muslim castle), which we toured after hiking over an hour to actually get up to the thing, was almost indescribable. Obviously, I went overboard on the pictures, but the architecture fascinates me, especially the varied arches. As the water softly flows through the well-developed canals interspersed throughout the castle, it's such an insanely tranquil feeling, one you don't often get in a Roman castle. With the intricate tilework and colorful brickwork, I'd venture to say that it is and was more vibrant, too.
After hiking back down the mountain afterwards, we rested at our hostel for a few hours until we were refreshed enough to take on the beach, which we did until the sun set. We walked all down the "Malagueta" beach, and watched the Spanish fisherman as they headed in at the end of the day. All very romanticized. All very serene. A fantastic choice for a weekend away.
After Málaga, we headed took a train to Sevilla, which Cade will tell you about in his part.
A todos, hasta luego. Espero que os disfrutéis en leer nuestro blog. Hace muchas semanas que vivo afuera de mi hogar, y todavía tengo siete más hasta que llegue. Ya hemos pasado más de un medio de nuestro semestre en España, y aunque todavía os echo de menos, yo sé que voy a echar de menos España (especialmente con los viajes por el país y Europa) cuando regresemos a Texas. Cada día aparece más como mi hogar. Es que no quiero estar muy emocionada, pero ahora me pongo así. Vale. Que todo lo pase bien.
¿Es como un diario, no? Pues, nada. Está bien. Hasta la próxima carta,
-Bana
Monday, March 23, 2009
Lisbon and Madrid
Last weekend we went to Lisbon with Jason and Jenny and had a blast. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures because I thought I forgot my memory card in my computer. Well, I did forget but I also forgot that I had an extra card in my camera case. Beautiful weather, cute streets and the Portuguese all made the trip good, but what made it great was the hostel where we stayed. If you ever make your way down there, try to hit up Rossio Hostel. It's the best hostel we've been to, seriously. Every night we were there we all hung out in the living room, drinking Portuguese wine and playing cards, and met pretty much everyone else from all over the world. It was a great place to stay and I'd go back in a heartbeat if I'm ever in the area again.
That said, some parts of the trip weren't so great. I think we got ripped off by the Taxi driver the first night we were there (for some "baggage fee") but it's hard to counter when you don't know the language. Also, their cheap food tricked us a little. In contrast to the states (and the rest of Europe for that matter), they charge you for every single thing they put on the table that you eat. For example, if they put bread on the table and you eat it, you're charged extra. Not the same in Spain. They put all kinds of little finger foods on your table without asking you whether you want it and without saying it costs extra, and then charge you when you eat it. As such, we got charged 6euro for olives and other nonsense that we wouldn't have eaten otherwise if we had known. And we had lots of people trying to sell us drugs, but that's not such a big deal when you blow them off. But oh well, just something to watch out for I guess....
So, we're back in Bilbao and absolutely loving the beautiful weather since it's stopped raining. After skies littered with clouds all through February (yes, pretty much every day) it's so nice to need to remember sunglasses in the mornings before school. Oh, the simple things. :)
Hope everyone's doing well! Y'all know we miss you.
-Bana
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Castle, Guernica, Italy and France!
We've done so much in the past 10 days, so let me start chronologically:
Castillo de Butrón
March 6, 2009
Determined to find this well-hidden and enormous castle in País Vasco (which I swear my Lonely Planet Spain guide says is still open to the public) Cade, myself and the Swedish girl Lina set out through an interesting and crazy journey. We started out the rainy day by taking the subway from Bilbao to Larrabasterra, then walked half a mile to the bus stop where this tiny little bus came and picked us up and dropped us off in the middle of NOWHERE. Seriously, there wasn't a road sign, bus stop or anything. He just stopped, dropped us off, and told us the general direction of where we could find the castle. We then found the little pathway (with goats!) that led us to the moat of the castle (yes! a real moat!). When we got there, all the gates were shut and there was no one around - more than a little strange, since Lonely Planet really hypes this thing up as a beacon of "medieval fantasy". We went in the little general store than was close to the entrance, and asked how to tour the castle. Unfortunately, she said, it's been closed for three years now! Even though we didn't get to see our castle's interior, it was still remarkable, especially with the moat. Here are the pictures.
March 7, 2009
I went here with the group of chicas (the Swedish girl Lina and five Brazilians). Guernica was heavily bombed during WWII in the Franco era's infancy. Not to crowd you with history, but the town really is a somber reminder of what intolerance can lead to, and I believe it's toured heavily, mostly because of its Museo de la Paz (Museum of Peace, which we also toured). It's an interesting day trip if you're in the area and interested in the subject. It's intensely quiet. Here are pictures.
Parents come to Bilbao (and an abortion rights parade!)
March 8, 2009
We were lucky enough to have my parents come visit us this past week, which was a blast to say the least. I think they might have gotten just as culture shocked as we were when we first came here, (especially with the food!), but I think they got used to everything being so different. We had a blast showing them around the town and it was so nice to be able to be with my family finally, after not seeing them since I left Texas in January. I missed them dearly, and loved that they came all the way here to see us. :) I realized how much I missed them when we were walking down the street on a sunny afternoon. That day, thousands of woman stormed the streets for abortion rights for women. Right now, a woman can only receive permission to abort in cases of rape, or when the mother's or child's life is in danger. It's really actually interesting to see Spain go through this transition for women's rights (especially now, with the ever-more-progressive president Zapatero whose sweeping social changes make me wish Obama could do the same without being chastised), and their campaign centralizes on "Mujeres en huelga" (woman on strike). BUT, even though I'm constantly enthralled in Spanish politics and could write about it FOREVER, I'll try to stay on topic. ANYWAY, the parade of abortion-rights activists were going down the street, and my mom got so excited and held my hand and walked in the middle of the street with them. So, yes, I've now "officially" participated in an abortion-rights protest for Spanish women and it feels good!
March 11-12, 2009
We all flew out of Bilbao to Pisa, Italy on Wednesday, where we enjoyed rich Italian food (I hate to admit it, but much better than Spanish food), Italian people (also a little friendlier than Spaniards - no offense), and Italian culture (which I fell in love with). I think if I knew Italian I might want to live there. It was absolutely beautiful, and so clean. Of course, we saw the leaning tower and took the obligatory pictures for that, but what I really enjoyed was walking down the adorable cobblestone streets and admiring the Italian architecture - everything from the quaint little shops outside to the massive Cathedrals. See for yourself with our pictures.Tuscany is truly beautiful, and even though I haven't yet been to Rome (we're going next month), I'd venture to say it's even more breathtaking than there.
March 12-13, 2009
After bidding farewell to Pisa, we crammed in our rental car for Volterra, where we all spent an amazing few days relishing unbeatable Tuscan scenery, food, ice cream and sunsets. If you've read Stephanie Meyer's Twilight series (which I'm still working on), you'll know Volterra from the books. I think that's part of the reason why my mom wanted to visit this quaint walled city, which sits guarded atop a mountain overlooking a valley that stretches across the horizon. I'm so glad she did. It's classic Italy in its most literal meaning - the only evidence that the modern world has even remotely affected it is the occasional car you see pushing its way through the cobblestone streets and old buildings. What especially piqued my interest were the ancient ruins of the Roman theater (pictured here), where you can literally imagine the actors and audiences those many years ago. My camera doesn't even do it justice, but you can see the pictures here. You have to see this place, and what's more - you have to see this place at sunset. As the sun crept down below the mountains, not only did golden and yellow hues of light litter the purple sky, but you could see the Mediterranean and
Paris
March 14, 2009
My mom got to celebrate her birthday in Paris, where we found ourselves at the end of our vacation because that's where they got on their flight back to Texas. Since our first experience with Paris wasn't what you would call ideal, we didn't have high expectations for our return trip - but with my parents, they can always find the most off-the-wall places to go! Like Volterra, the catacombs is rarely mentioned in any Paris guidebook, but it's well worth the visit and 4euro to check it out. Unlike the Eiffel Tower or Notre Dame where flocks of tourists come daily, the catacombs is more low-key, but twice as intense. It's estimated that a nearly 6 million bodies are there to this day, which isn't a stretch on any imagination given the near-hour you spend walking through the tiny pathway - all the while just inches from skeletel remains of people who lived hundreds of years ago. Yes, a little morbid - but fascinating. No pictures of that, though, because they don't allow flash. Sadly, my parents took their subway back to their hotel near the CDG airport, as Cade and I stayed at a small 6-person hostel near the train station, where we took an early morning train the next day back home. I actually cried as they left - I didn't want the week to end - but I'm so happy they came and visited me and miss them already. You don't realized how much you miss seeing someone until you're away from them for months at a time. I hope they're reading this. :) If y'all are, I love you! After they left, Cade and I walked around town, checking out some things like Notre Dame (while mass was going on - really interesting...) that we missed the last time we were there. Here are those pictures.
Whew! I bet that was as tiring to read as it was to write, so I'll end here. Jason and Jenny are in town and are staying with us for this week, and we're all flying to Lisbon, Portugal tomorrow, so we'll report on that when we get back on Saturday. :) Hope everyone is doing well back home!
-Bana