Tuesday, May 26, 2009

This might possibly be the last post I make here...

...and most definitely the longest. You have no idea how much that both elates and depresses me. But even though my mediocre writing tends to take a tangent, please stay with me. I’d like to think it gets better at the end.

My head is spinning from the turmoil of the last few days, and just in case you don’t know, here’s the recap: watched Club Athletic’s expected loss to Barcelona instead of studying for exams, took exams while wishing I had studied for exams, celebrated and mourned our return to the states with our Erasmus friends, realized I really do love Bilbao and País Vasco, checked in for our EasyJet plane to London, realized our luggage was 10 kilos over and had to throw away the extras, visited London and relished in speaking English, flew to Dublin via RyanAir, decided to forever boycott RyanAir, got lost in Dublin without a map, explored the Storehouse and drank this black coffee they call Guiness, would have relished the English if we could have understood it, flew back to the states, ate Mexican food, graduated two days later, move into my apartment TODAY.

The chaos of the past few days didn’t leave much room for blogging, but now – sitting in this Austin La Quinta after graduation – it’s time to wrap it all up.

To study abroad quite possibly could have been the best decision I’ve ever made, maybe second or third to more important things like go to UT, join the band, or finally say yes to Cade’s repeated requests for a date. BUT, even though my hesitance was more than obvious in the beginning, and our first days in the rainy green land were anything but tranquil, I realized in those last few weeks that the things I’ve learned, the friends I’d made and the places I went were incomparable. Seeing Europe at 21 gave me the itch to see Asia. And South America. And Australia. And Africa. And most of all, I want to see what I haven’t seen in my own country. I want to travel, I want to see how other people work, and I want to see how societies tick. The differences in Spanish culture and our own is enough to pick apart for a decade.

But whether or not that all fits in my future – I have no idea. The speaker at my graduation - an eccentric but fun Pulitzer Prize winner whose quirky insight had the whole auditorium laughing – said something I’m going to try to keep at heart. He said think in the present, live in the present, write in the present. That’s what I want to do, so we’ll see how it goes.

It’d be easy for me to get caught up in a sentimental rant and take a tangent away from what I originally wanted to write about, so...here’s the extended recap of what Cabana have been up to in the last weeks of our life in Spain.

The best friends you could ask for...
After Athletic’s eventual loss to Barça, and after our tests that gave a whole new meaning to the final in final exams, Cade and I began the sad process of packing up our little dorm room and squeezing it all into our two bags. Not all of it fit – especially the 19 wine bottles we’d saved from some weekends we can’t even remember and other memorabilia that we sadly couldn’t take – but we packed what we could and threw away what we couldn’t. The night before we flew up to London, we had a big farewell dinner with all of our friends – the so-deemed Erasmus kids. For photos of the most good looking kids in Europe, click here. We ate, drank and talked all night long, exchanged presents and had so much fun that it made me realize they’re the part of Bilbao I’ll miss the most. Cade and I made everyone an enlarged photo of our group together, and they surprised us with the sweetest video, and I think the only video, we’ve ever had made for us. Any attempt to describe it would be an injustice, so please take the time to watch it here. http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/video/video.php?v=1146645180310&ref=mf

We ended the night like old times – bar hopping, stealing wine glasses and making a ruckus in the streets. If y’all are reading, I hope you know I’ll never forget y’all and if you don’t keep up with me on Facebook I’m coming over to Sweden/Boston/Brasil/Belgium/France/Italy/Norway and I’ll find you!

“We gave you your culture, and what did you do with it? You went and effed it up!” – Ben, the English friend
London, by all means, was quite lovely once we actually got there. But the whole thing beforehand with the airline just sucked. Now, London and Dublin were our last stops before going home, so obviously we had everything with us – the last six months of our lives all scrunched into two bags each. So, once we set down our baggage at the EasyJet check-in counter at the Bilbao airport, we’re told that our bags are 12 kilos over. Okay, cool. Not a problem. I’ll just pay the extra weight. No, she says. Extra weight is “carísimo” – they charge 12€ per kilo. So, it was either pay 120€ on the spot or throw away our luggage. Had we been anything but poor college kids, I might still have my favorite pair of pajama pants, all four books of the Twilight series, my black boots and a dozen other things that define the stereotype of girls packing too much. Being young, energetic and wrinkle-less has its own price to pay, and thus a quarter of our clothes are probably now sitting in the bottom of a city dumpster in Bilbao. It would have been nice to at least be able to donate them to some sort of a shelter, which is why I propose this to any airline officials reading (because of course there are airline officials reading this blog) – put in donation boxes at the airports for poor college students who can’t afford to pay the excess baggage fees. That way, at least it won’t feel like such a waste throwing our stuff away and maybe we could help a few people along the way who don’t have it that great. Just a thought.

Despite all that, London was a welcome relief. Together with Dublin, I think the two cities were the most similar to our own culture in terms of food, music and everything else. I mean, it is the homeland after all. But seriously, I really enjoyed London, and not only because everyone spoke English (although that was a substantial part of it) but because the people actually seemed nicer and more willing to help. Ben told us that the people in southern England are more closed off than in the northern cites like Liverpool and Manchester, so maybe we need to go back and see. Plus, you can’t be rude with that jolly English accent, chap. You just can’t.

There’s really no way to escape looking like an American tourist when you’re an American tourist. I think we learned this sometime halfway through our semester, so we’ve since given up on a façade. So, we took pictures around and in the red phone booths (which smell like piss and are covered in call girl ads so I highly discourage actually going in them), saw Parliament and Big Ben, stared like tourists at the double decker red buses, took a stroll through Hyde Park before watching the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, watched from afar the London Eye because we couldn’t afford the 15 pounds to ride it, shook the queen’s hand (kidding) and walked about 4 miles both ways to see the Tower of London. No snow, and we had shoes. In all honesty, I think we squeezed what would have probably amounted to a week’s worth of sightseeing for a normal person into one day. Keep that in mind as you peruse the hundreds of pictures here.

Bugger off, yeh bastards bugger off!
Ireland and the Irish remind me of Texas and Texans. Who needs clubs when you have Temple Bar? We knew this going in though. We asked our Irish friend Hughie, who goes to school in Dublin, what we should do during our stay there. Obviously, go to a pub, he says. What do we do after that? Go to another pub! You see why they remind me of Texas?
Getting to Dublin, like getting to London, was a little troublesome, though. But I guess it’s only fitting that we leave a part of ourselves in as many places as possible – namely the bottom of the city dumpsters in those places.

We paid 5 pounds for our flight to London to Dublin via RyanAir. I know; freaking cheap and it would have stayed that way if we didn’t have all our bags with us. Like EasyJet, RyanAir has freakishly low baggage weight allowances, except they’re not as generous as EasyJet. 15 kilos per person. No, forget the fact that I paid for two extra bags. Apparently you don’t get more weight when you buy more bags. So, we’re roughly 10 kilos over, and excess weight is not 12 but 15 pounds per kilo this time. That’s 150 pounds, probably $300 the way the exchange rate is right now, that we didn’t have. Needless to say, I didn’t come back to the United States with much of anything. A few clothes and one pair of shoes. Cade sacrificed his cowboy boots and almost cried, which almost made me cry. So, word of caution: RyanAir is great if you’re just taking a weekend trip, but if you’re checking bags – don’t waste your time, and you won’t waste your clothes.

But once we got past that, and the cranky airport to city bus driver who dropped us off in the middle of Dublin with no map and no information on where the hell we were, Dublin rocked. After our semester of traveling and studying had come to an end, we thought what better way to finish it off than with a pint of the black stuff? Much like London, we tried to cram a week’s worth of sightseeing into one and a half day, and even though we probably missed some things, what we did see was the best. Check the pictures out here. Besides, we have our whole lives to go back and catch up on what we didn’t this time around.

After meandering around lost for over an hour, we finally finagled our way to our hostel, an adorable hotel-turned-hostel that I think was my second favorite in Europe, behind Rossio Hostel in Lisbon. We introduced ourselves to Dublin by a couple of bad ass burgers at the Bad Ass Café in Temple Bar, the so-deemed “best place to eat in Dublin by far” by Hughie.



We spent the rest of the trip checking off the must-see sights on Hughie’s list, notably the Dublin Zoo and Dun Laoighre. The zoo would have been just like any other zoo without the added flavor of the Irish kids’ accents which made it all worthwhile and had Cade and I trying to imitate it for the rest of the trip. But Dun Laoighre really embodied what we had initially pictured of Ireland. After the 30 minute ride on the podunk little city train, we stepped off to a bay of picturesque green hills, sailboats, and a threateningly fat raincloud. Check out a map of Dublin and you’ll see what I mean – its coasts make up a wide and curvy bay, and there are two piers that go out and pretty much stretch around it all. We went out to the piers, took pictures on the rocks and looked out for I don’t know how long at the green landscapes that make Ireland Ireland. We left just as it started to sprinkle down, and by the time we crammed into the train back to town we were saturated and freezing – but I mean it when I say that’s some of the prettiest scenery I’ve seen.

The next day we flew into Chicago, then Dallas before FINALLY heading to Houston. A few days before we left and while on the plane, I wrote a little list of things I’ll miss and things I missed in Texas that only seem appropriate to add now:

What I’ll miss in País Vasco, Bilbao and Spain
1. The beautiful “paisaje” that steals your heart and never gets boring. The vivid green. The mountains. The hills. The blue sky when you’re lucky enough to have decent weather. As much as I complained about Bilbao and all things Basque when I first came, I really am going to miss this beautiful countryside. Taking a bus or train through these remarkable views is truly a treat, and nothing in Spain or even Europe compares to it. The green trees, all perched on the hillsides and jumping from cliffside to cliffside are akin to a fantasyland, one I know it will be hard to leave. It’s unimaginable, and living up here I really think I take it for granted, until of course I take a bus through it like right now on my way to San Sebastian. Only then am I reminded time and time again how peaceful, serene and calm these views really are. It really does cement any and all romanticized views of the Basque Country, and I love it. – 4/24/2009
2. Basque people, who are closed down at first – almost impenetrable – but so very helpful. They’re stylish, with their dark clothes and mink coats in 80 degree weather. I think I ultimately realized that they’re as proud of the Basque Country as Texans are of the Lone Star State.
3. The beautiful warm days, which seem like a gift after five months of nonstop rain. It’s kind of like Bilbao’s way of saying goodbye. I’m sitting on a bench now across from Deusto and it’s so incredibly warm. I can’t remember being able to soak up the sun like this since the sultry August days in Texas. It really makes you appreciate the sunshine so much more.
4. Running at night with Cade alongside the river, next to the bright lights of the Guggenheim.
5. Being able to walk everywhere from home – from the supermarket, to school, to the post office. The feeling that I’m totally independent of my car, even when traveling. We traveled all over Europe without a car and stayed on budget. Public transportation here is amazing.
6. Being a stone’s throw away from pretty much every other European country. Taking a weekend trip to Paris, like we did in February, is laughable in the states.
7. Tortilla de patata. Natillas. Menú del día. Wine. 8. Bars. Discotecas, Kalimotxo.
9. All the friends I’ve made here, who made this experience better than I ever thought it would be. Lina, with her knack at getting everyone together and her complete acceptance of the fact that she was always the “Swedish girl” in my blog and the only non-American in most of our weekend trips. Dane, with his unmatched enthusiasm and expertise in self-timing photos. François, who puts Hugh Heffner to shame. Stephanie, who’s adorable in her own way with her curiosity about everything. Leticia and Luana, who put up with me asking them to repeat everything again when I say “más dispacio, por favor”. Ben, whose English accent makes my day, everyday. And all the others from all parts of the world who each helped me learn a little about their culture and who all gave me ample practice of my Spanish.

What I missed from Texas
Yes, this semester has truly been an amazing, unforgettable and all-around enlightening experience, but Texas calls me too, daily, especially in these last few days. What I’ll miss from Spain is compensated by what I’ve missed from home.

1. My family. My friends. Being able to see and talk to them without going through e-mail or messing with Skype on a bad connection.
2. Washer and dryer on demand. Not having to take clothes all balled up in a blanket, only to go down and see all three washers taken. Going back to a country where the people use dryers and not have to hang up wet clothes all over the place to dry.
3. Normal food. No Bacalao. TexMex. Mac and cheese. Syrup. Oh syrup. Biscuits and gravy. Lunch meat that’s not 4€ for four slices. Lean beef. Refrigerated milk (although I’ve gotten used to it). The list goes on and on.
4. Dishwasher. Bathtub. Living space more than 1 room for two people.
5. Sun.
6. Heat.
7. Shorts.
8. Being able to read a menu, order and know exactly what’s going to show up on my plate.
9. Disciplined kids.
10. Wearing flip flops without everyone looking at you like you’re crazy.
11. An oven, not just a stovetop.

As soon as we touched ground in Texas, it was a nonstop hustle bustle until today, a week later, when I have time to type it all up from the random chicken scratch of my notebook pages. We’re graduated, and for the most part, ready to take on the world. Cade’s going on to law school in Dallas, and I’m trying to find a job up there so I can be with him.

But by the way, if there are any travel blog/magazine/newspaper/publication editors out there, hire me!

As for all the other readers (may just be one reader at this point), thank you so much for tagging along throughout this blog. It means a lot that you care about us and what we were up to in Spain. If I had my way, I’d do nothing but write about this stuff for the rest of my life. Turns out I don’t really have that option right now, but it may be there later.

Alright, we’re ready to take on the world. Global financial crisis and print media meltdown, bring it.
-Bana

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Aupa Athletic, and...oh yeah. I'm done!

I walked the two miles home from school day in the pouring rain and wintry breeze, sans umbrella. Despite the rain, despite the wind, despite my drenched shoes and despite the fact that I never seem to bring my umbrella when I need to, it couldn't have been more perfect.

This morning, at 10:58am, I bubbled in my last answer of the last test of my last semester of the last year of my undergraduate studies. By all means, I'm officially done - not just with Deusto and not just with Spain. I'm done with school....for now.

The creeping fact that I'm still what most would consider "unemployed" isn't ruining this for me...yet. I'm done with exams, I'm done with school and I get Mexican food next week for the first time in five months. Nothing, not even joblessness or the fact that NOBODY seems to be hiring, can spoil that. I've got way too much to relish at the moment and there's still so much going on around here that I don't want to stress about it until the plane touches ground in Houston. Better yet, until after I savor every crumb of that Mexican food.

For one - Aupa Athletic!
Even though I had two back-to-back exams this morning, there are some things you just can't miss. For the first time in I'm not sure how long, the Athletic Club Bilbao (Bilbao's soccer team and the pride of País Vasco) played in THE Copa del Rey (a Super Bowl of sorts for Spanish soccer). The game was in Valencia, but gigantic screens were splattered about the city for those who stayed in Bilbao. Two of which were in Casco Viejo, where most all of us met to watch the game last night at 10pm.

Keeping in mind that I've been in the Longhorn Band for four years, including but not limited to 4 Red River Rivalries, 1 National Championship, 4 victorious bowl games and I don't know how many ESPN Game Days, I still don't think I've ever seen so many people crowded into such a small area with such team spirit. I loved it. It really and honestly reminded me of home, where if you're not screaming your throat raw after Shipley just ran in for the TD, you're not a true fan. If you're not out of your seat when the defense stops the third down conversion, you're not really in the game. THAT'S what I love and THAT'S what I saw last night with the Club Athletic fans. They had their jerseys, their faces painted, their beer, their kalimotxos, their cigarettes, their marijuana, their bufandas, their flags and their banners. They flipped off the screens when the refs made a bad call and screamed Spanish obscenities when it didn't go their way. Just to be in the middle of all that, to be crushed in the middle of this entangled mob of fiery fans, brought me back to mosh pits and high school. It was awesome.

We brought our wine, beer and good spirits and passed the night with our big group of friends in front of the two big pantallas, or screens. I probably should have studied just a little bit more, but meh - soccer pretty much defines Spanish culture so that's just something you can't miss. We had the face paint, wore our red and white and cheered with the crowd, but in the end Barcelona kicked some serious ass and rose up above Bilbao 4-1. But even though they lost, that's an experience I wouldn't miss for anything.

*I forgot to bring my camera, but Lina took some great pictures and I will try to edit this post with them as soon as I can steal them from her on Facebook.

Cade's probably about to finish his last exam as I'm writing this and as for the rest of this week, we have so much to do! Enjoy liberation today, final farewell dinner with all our friends tomorrow, pack and leave on Saturday, London on Saturday and Sunday, Dublin on Monday and Tuesday, Houston on Wednesday (this is where the Mexican food comes in) and Austin on Thursday for graduation.

Hook 'em Class of 2009!
-Bana

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Nothing shows the real País Vasco like its little fishing towns: Bakio, Mundaka and Bermeo

And that's pretty much the truth. Bilbao's known for its professionals, its industrialism, businesses and Guggenheim with tourists. San Sebastián's known for its tourists, beach and pintxos. Tourists, tourists and more tourists.

But the rest, you seriously have to see for yourself. Once away from industrial Bilbao and the tourists' haven San Sebastián, you can really get a good gauge on what País Vasco is, and why the people who stay here love it so much.

A group of our friends took a weekend trip to Bakio, Mundaka and Bermeo this weekend, all basically a stone's throw from each other and an hour on the bus from Bilbao. And, apart from when I went Maui with my family when I was 16, I don't think I've ever seen white sandy beach, green hillside and aquamarine ocean combine in such a majestic way as I did this weekend.

We started the trip early Friday afternoon, when we took the bus from Bilbao to what we thought was Bermeo. Turns out it didn't, because the highway apparently had been closed down for some while, leaving the route we had planned on taking closed. But that only heightened the adventure, as we ended up in Bakio, a quaint little pueblo right on the coast.

After spending a few hours eating our picnic lunch, taking some great pictures and climbing the monstrous rocks on the sandy beach, we left for Mundaka, another small pueblo famous for its surfing and all-around awesomeness.

Once we checked into our hotel, we went out to explore what Mundaka has to offer: beach, beach and more beach. But, unlike Barcelona, Málaga or even San Sebastián where the beaches verge on mediocre, taking in the Mundaka beach landscape can take a full day. And even better, we were the only tourists.

Any words I conjure up, no matter how many adjectives I slap on, don't do it justice. Even the pictures don't, but you can see them here. It's just the way everything comes together - the green hills, the rocky cliffs, the deep blue and clear water, the white sandy beach, the bright blue skies - that's just so mesmerizing it's hard not to spend an entire sunny afternoon enjoying it all. To come to País Vasco without at least taking one day to see it should be criminal.

After we tore ourselves from this unforgettable scenery and night began to fall, we of course checked out the Mundaka nightlife, which is limited to say the least. In Bilbao, you won't go too far looking for a good pintxo bar at midnight. In Mundaka, we roamed the little streets for quite a while until we finally found a little smoky bar, where we spent the rest of the night with good music, good friends and good drinks.

The next morning we couldn't wait for more beach time. We checked out of the hotel, left our bags in the baggage room, and headed off for some more sun at what had already become my favorite beach in Spain. (Yes, seriously. Better than San Sebastián and Málaga. Better than them all...) Please though, look at the pictures. If you find a better beach in Spain with all the elements that make a beach a perfect beach, let me know. :)

This next part's where luck came in play. After an exhausting day in the sun, we didn't know whether we'd all be up for completing the trifecta of País Vasco towns and going to Bermeo. Thus, we thought we'd leave it up to EU tender. Tails we go home, heads we see the world.

I'm so glad that penny landed heads. Bermeo was almost as pretty as Mundaka, but still beautiful in its own unique Basque way. But, after seeing a pirate ship, staring in awe as the waves pounded against yet another beautiful cliffside beach and taking way too many pictures, we left the tranquil and serene scenery for the hustle and bustle of Bilbao.

And so ends another weekend journey. The more I see all of what País Vasco has to offer outside of Bilbao - most especially its amazing countryside - the more I just love being here. Only two weeks left, though. Even though I love it here, I think I'm ready to go back home. I miss family, friends, food and English. :)

Para todos mis amigos y mi familia en los estados, nos vemos en dos semanas. Para mis amigos aquí, nunca voy a olvidaros. For all my friends and family back in the states, I'll see you in two weeks. For everyone here in Bilbao, I'll never forget y'all. :)

Sinceramente,
Bana